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ATSF 298993 Ft-93 10-pack Fuel Foiler Spine Car
FINISHED MODEL
My 10-pack Fuel Foiler is based on prototype photos of car 298993 I took at Glen Frazer siding in May 1993.
It replicates, as closely as I could, the simplified brake rigging and heavy weathering of a well-used car.
For clarity, the order of units is, from the brake end:
B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-A
As with all freight cars, when facing the brake end with the brake wheel,
the car's "left side" is on your left and its "right side" is on your right.
FINISHED MODEL
My 10-pack Fuel Foiler is based on prototype photos of car 298993 I took at Glen Frazer siding in May 1993.
It replicates, as closely as I could, the simplified brake rigging and heavy weathering of a well-used car.
For clarity, the order of units is, from the brake end:
B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-A
As with all freight cars, when facing the brake end with the brake wheel,
the car's "left side" is on your left and its "right side" is on your right.
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Below: The B, or brake, end has the brake wheel, which was angled on the prototype for a lower profile
to reduce accidental damage when loading trailers. I used Plano Models #152 etched metal walkways,
and a Hi-Tech Details rubber air hose. The simple cut lever is brass wire. I also added straight grabs.
to reduce accidental damage when loading trailers. I used Plano Models #152 etched metal walkways,
and a Hi-Tech Details rubber air hose. The simple cut lever is brass wire. I also added straight grabs.
Below: I weathered all units using a similar process after a spray of Dull Cote to lock down the decals. For rust streaks, I used a toothpick to dab on tiny dots
of "Burnt Umber" artist's oil paint, and used a flat brush dipped in mineral spirits to drag the dots downward creating a rust streak. For the splattery road grime
effects, I used "Payne's Gray" (a very dark shade of gray, almost black) artist's oil paint, diluted with mineral spirits. Using a fine-bristled flat brush and a
toothpick, I "flicked" this onto the model in the areas where splatters appeared on the prototype (e.g. the sides of the centersills). Next, I used a stiff flat-ended
brush to stipple on a mix of weathering powders - PanPastel "Raw Umber" for road dust plus various shades of rust. The powders stuck to the splatters for
concentrated grime, and spread out for a more dusty effect where there were no splatters. In areas where I wanted a heavier effect, such as the platforms
worn by trailer wheels shifting around, I first applied a thin layer of the diluted "Payne's Gray" to represent weathered steel showing through the white paint,
followed by stippled rust-colored powders which stuck in the artist's oil to build up a heavily rusted area. An overspray of Dull Cote locked everything in place.
of "Burnt Umber" artist's oil paint, and used a flat brush dipped in mineral spirits to drag the dots downward creating a rust streak. For the splattery road grime
effects, I used "Payne's Gray" (a very dark shade of gray, almost black) artist's oil paint, diluted with mineral spirits. Using a fine-bristled flat brush and a
toothpick, I "flicked" this onto the model in the areas where splatters appeared on the prototype (e.g. the sides of the centersills). Next, I used a stiff flat-ended
brush to stipple on a mix of weathering powders - PanPastel "Raw Umber" for road dust plus various shades of rust. The powders stuck to the splatters for
concentrated grime, and spread out for a more dusty effect where there were no splatters. In areas where I wanted a heavier effect, such as the platforms
worn by trailer wheels shifting around, I first applied a thin layer of the diluted "Payne's Gray" to represent weathered steel showing through the white paint,
followed by stippled rust-colored powders which stuck in the artist's oil to build up a heavily rusted area. An overspray of Dull Cote locked everything in place.
Below: A close-up of the C-unit right side details. See the Construction page for build description.
entire website copyright Gregg Fuhriman
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